Trevor Gulliver – a very particular approach to wine

Rebecca Hobson

Bex Hobson

The St John legacy is an ironic one. The restaurant purports to be a simple, back to basics establishment. Nothing fancy – just good, honest food.

Or as its co-proprietor, Trevor Gulliver, puts it: “There’s nothing simpler than Fergus puts it on the plate and I put it in the glass.”

Food revolutions aside, (because the St John influence has undoubtedly changed the way we eat), Trevor’s approach to wine is actually quite complex, fraught and considered.

Having imported “natural” wines for years, he takes great issue with labels. He stocks “unnatural” wines at St John and will continue to do so for many years he says.

Interviewing him is tricky; he speaks fast and knowledgably about wine and is provocative. His talk at Abergavenny is set to be fiery, fascinating and informed.

During a tutored tasting – that will include a wine never before drunk in Britain before – he will debunk myths, likely create some new ones, and no doubt give a highly entertaining rant on the wine industry.

He will air his views that include: “wine makers are like sausages – they’re bags of mystery,” and “it’s about good housekeeping, as long as you’re hygienic, as long as the grapes are good you’ll make good wine.”

He says it will only be a “little talk” but I very much doubt that. I suggest you go along and find out for yourself.

Trevor Gulliver’s Tutored Tasting ‘Natural Wines?’ takes place on Sunday at 1.00pm. Tickets cost ~~£8.00. Buy now from the Borough Theatre Box Office: 01873 850805.

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